I've cycled over a number of passes these few weeks, but if I will remember one, then it will be Zoji La. It stands between Alpine-like valleys near Sonamarg and more rugged mountain ranges of upper Kashmir. The road is cut into a steep mountain slope and it seems it's a one-way road. I don't know how the police controls the current direction of traffic, but the fact is that the only time my passport has been checked by the police on a Leh-Srinagar stretch was just before the pass, on the north side. As a cyclist I was allowed to go in the wrong dirrection.
Before that, going up to the summit, I had a sur-realistic encounted with incredible number of trucks (at least 200) that were descending the pass practicaly bumper-to-bumber. With dirt road and the headwind it ment cycling in constant dust and exhaust fumes. By the time all the trucks passed I was as white as a baker after a night's shift. On the Zoji La more trucks were parked on a narrow road in a precipitous seting and were waiting a secret sign to move on. South side of Zoji La ends in smooth asphalt on which you practically fall to the village of Sonamarg.
Day 16: 120 km, 7h 38min. Total 1570 km.