Sonamarg
I've cycled over a number of passes these few weeks, but if I will remember one, then it will be Zoji La. It stands between Alpine-like valleys near Sonamarg and more rugged mountain ranges of upper Kashmir. The road is cut into a steep mountain slope and it seems it's a one-way road. I don't know how the police controls the current direction of traffic, but the fact is that the only time my passport has been checked by the police on a Leh-Srinagar stretch was just before the pass, on the north side. As a cyclist I was allowed to go in the wrong dirrection.
Before that, going up to the summit, I had a sur-realistic encounted with incredible number of trucks (at least 200) that were descending the pass practicaly bumper-to-bumber. With dirt road and the headwind it ment cycling in constant dust and exhaust fumes. By the time all the trucks passed I was as white as a baker after a night's shift. On the Zoji La more trucks were parked on a narrow road in a precipitous seting and were waiting a secret sign to move on. South side of Zoji La ends in smooth asphalt on which you practically fall to the village of Sonamarg.
Before that, going up to the summit, I had a sur-realistic encounted with incredible number of trucks (at least 200) that were descending the pass practicaly bumper-to-bumber. With dirt road and the headwind it ment cycling in constant dust and exhaust fumes. By the time all the trucks passed I was as white as a baker after a night's shift. On the Zoji La more trucks were parked on a narrow road in a precipitous seting and were waiting a secret sign to move on. South side of Zoji La ends in smooth asphalt on which you practically fall to the village of Sonamarg.Day 16: 120 km, 7h 38min. Total 1570 km.


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